Butterick 5223 Jacket

I've got a bit of a thing about short jackets at the moment and this one, Butterick 5223, caught my eye.

I like the pleated neck detail and the wide collar - almost a 50's feel to it.

For the hot Australian summer these jackets are a dressier option while still being cool. I know they're not on the list of 'best' shapes for my rectangular figure but I sometimes get a little sick of making the same styles over again.

Whenever I finish a garment I like to add a label from my collection, usually to the back facing but occassionally somewhere on the right side of the fabric.

With this label I stitched all the way around using my edge-stitching foot, surely the most useful foot on the machine!

This is how I like to take up a hem, no matter how wide or narrow it is.  First of all I sew a line of basting stitches where the hem fold will be.  I usually do this with contrast thread and find quicker, easier and more accurate than the traditional measure and pin method.  For deep hems I place a piece of tape on the machine bed the required distance from the needle and use this as a guide for the line of basting stitches.

I then iron the hem up along the basting line, give it a good press then remove the basting stitches. From there it's just a matter of hemming it in place on the sewing machine.

How to draft a pleated pocket

I'd like this tutorial to include a whiz-bang photo collage thingy that jumps out at you when you roll your cursor over it but, well, for the moment these photos will have to do.  I have searched the internet looking for ways to format the photos but so far haven't had any success.  If anyone has any tips they'd be much appreciated!  This is the pleated pocket I drafted for my 'retro-style' jacket (Vogue 8472) and I thought I'd share the process with you.

You can see the close up of it here.  Notice that as well as binding the top of the pocket with self BB I also added a self-covered button.

Start with a template of the finished pocket. Measure the top width so you know what it should be after pleating the pocket fabric.

Draw vertical lines where you want the pleats to go. Keep in mind that thicker fabric will require more space to pleat so limit the number to just a few.

Cut through the lines, almost to the bottom of the template, and spread the top of the pocket the desired amount.

Redraw the template, including the slash-and-spread area, then add seam allowances. This is the pattern piece you will use to cut out your fabric. If you like you can draw the pleat lines onto this piece.

When I made my pocket I trimmed the top edge with bias binding (so I actually cut the top seam allowance off) and added a self-fabric button.

Vogue 8472 Jacket

This is the second time I've made this pattern, the first was made from cotton ticking as a muslin (read the review here). I was happy with the muslin, the fit changes I had made to accommodate my brick-like figure, so this is my 'real' jacket. The fabric is a jap cotton print with brushed cotton contrast panels.  It's a little hard to see the details but I have added pleated patch pockets and covered buttons on the front.

I really like the whimsical Audrey Hepburn feel this pattern has, it's kind of timeless but also of the moment. I'd probably front up to make it a third time, maybe with different details. I can definitely see this in a metallic nightclub shimmer!