Bias Binding on Puffed Sleeves

This top (McCalls 5388) has become a favourite for me, it offers lots of design possibilities and can be made from both knit and lightweight woven fabrics.  The only thing I'm not loving about the pattern is that the little puffed sleeves are finished with elastic in a casing.  Hmmm, shouts cheap to me.  Time to change construction methods and gather them onto bias binding.

First things first, the pattern is the same, there are no alterations.  Hem the lower edge as usual then stitch a row of basting stitches 1/4" from the fold.

Tie off one end then gather the lower edge of the sleeve from the other.  Measure your bicep and gather according to this.  Knot off this end as well.  Spread the gathers evenly, keeping the seam allowances at either end flat.

Lie the gathered edge along the centre fold of the bias binding, encasing the edge between it's two layers, and pin then topstitch in place.

This photo shows a close up of the finished bias binding.


Construct the rest of the sleeve as per the instructions.

How to make yo-yo's

McCalls's 5388 lends itself to quite a few design possibilities.  Having already made the necessary fit changes (you can see my review of the original version) I decided to play with fabric and details (see this review here).  One of the details I eventually decided on was yo-yo's, they're easy as pie to make and give the garment a bit of a crafty, country feel.  They tend to look best when grouped together in clusters.

1. Start by making paper templates with a diameter twice as wide as the finished yo-yo.  My largest yo-yo template was 16cm across (finished size ~ 8cm), my middle yo-yo 8cm across (finished size ~ 4cm) and the smallest yo-yo 4cm across (finished size ~ 2cm).
2. Cut the fabric circles out.
3. By hand, turn under ~ 1/4" narrow hem using a 1/4" gathering stitch to baste close to the fold.

4. Pull the gathering stitch up to form the yo-yo, centre the gathers and tie off.  Fluff it out a bit to get the effect you want.

5. Sew a button to the centre, if you wish.